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Journal

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BBQ Pork Ribs

matthew wilson

SmokeAndOrePorkRibs.jpg

This one was an ongoing experiment that stemmed from my smoker being out of commission for a bit. I have always considered the idea of BAKING ribs to be so so wrong…. however I was absolutely wrong. It’s obviously a different flavor but it’s still amazing!


INGREDIENTS:

  • 1 Rack of St.Louis Style Pork Ribs

  • Butcher Paper (get it here on Amazon)

  • Apple Cider Vinegar (***read below for my personal modification)

  • Trader Joes Umami Seasoning (get it here on Amazon)

  • Fresh Ground black pepper

  • Fine Ground Expresso

  • Palm Sugar

  • Alder smoked sea salt

  • Maldon Salt

  • Ground Cumin

  • Smoked Paprika

  • Chipotle Seasoning

  • BBQ sauce (Im using a mixture of our homemade S&O sauce and Lilly Q’s Smoke (get it here on Amazon)

SnOSpices.jpg

COOK TIME: ~ 5 hours (depending on the overall weight), 1.5 hr per pound was good for me to get where i wanted.

SNOBBQribsTrimmed.jpg

Pork Spare ribs

TRIMMING IT DOWN:

You want to make sure you remove small flaps or tiny bits of fat from the top. It should be even, clean and smooth. I also like to lightly score the top diagonally against the grain. On the bottom side use a paper tower to grab the thing membrane that covers the bones and peel it off. Leave the casing around the bone so they stay connected while they cook… if you completely expose the bones you’ve gone too far. I like to cut a thin edge on the most exposed side and slowly work it up. If you can get enough to grab you can usually peel it off in one pull.


SnOSeasonedBBQribs.jpg

Seasoned and ready to go…

SEASONING:

Start off on the meaty side with the Apple cider vinegar. I used a cap full, which was just enough to coat the whole surface. Next layer in the alder smoked sea salt (about a tablespoon). If you use the same brand that I use (linked above), it’s pretty strong so I just dust the surface. In my experiments I found that using a fine ground, flavored salt, gives a lot of flavor but I use much less than course ground salt. The vinegar also dissolves the salt a bit which is part of the reason why I cut it with the palm sugar. I use equal parts of sugar to salt. Rub this all in and move onto the text stage of the rub. Mix together a tablespoon of the Umami, paprika and Chipotle and a teaspoon of cumin. layer that on and then add the final cover of fresh ground pepper and a touch of espresso. I used a bit of course ground salt at the very end on top but that’s just my personal preference.

COOKING:


We generally tend to stick with the standard 3, 2 ,1 method for a full rack
(but I cut the last hour down just to a quick seer at the end) :
- 3 hours wrapped tight in paper and foil (reflective side in) at 225. BONE UP
- 2 hours, sauced up, re-wrapped and returned to the oven at 225. BONE DOWN
- 10-15 mins open up and flip. By this point they are going to be super delicate and falling apart so be careful handling them as little as possible. I like to T cut the paper open and pull it back, making a little trough that they sit in for the final seer. I found it to be a good idea to roll the paper flaps down underneath so they dont catch and smoke up when you put it back in to broil. Finally, after flipping them back to BONE DOWN/MEAT UP I spoon the sauce and liquid back over top. If the sauce is to thin to stick, I like to brush on some thicker BBQ sauce. This is what we want to caramelize with some of the fat, but we dont want to dry out the meat. Dont let it burn !

Once its got a nice crisp to it, pull it out and let it rest for 5-10 mins before cutting it and diving in. We love a good tomato base BBQ sauce but we also love a good mustard base with cucumbers and golden berries as a garnish. Most of the time though, we just leave then all alone and watch then disappear in a matter of seconds. Our son, who is a self proclaimed “Pizzatarian” has started to ask for these on a bi-weekly basis.

One the first day of Cheesemas.....

matthew wilson

My true love gave to me..... well, CHEESE! Today, Époisses de Bourgogne, and Humbolt Fog. Époisses was afavorite of Napoleon himself, this little stinky cheese packs a rich and robust wallap (two peas in a pod I guess!). Humbolt Fog is one of our all time favorites. An american original full of creaminess, but with a delicate herb and floral aftertaste. 

Since were tying French and American favorites together, we wanted to put oak, and smoke at the forefront of our base flavors. We also wanted to tap into the dark and rich flavors of fall fruits and cured meats. 

Charcuterie board 1: Epoisses & Humbolt Fog, with Hudson valley cured meats and fruits, french regional smoke duck and local farmed mustard greens. For wine, we've paired in a Zola white Cotes Du Rhone.

Charcuterie board 1: Epoisses & Humbolt Fog, with Hudson valley cured meats and fruits, french regional smoke duck and local farmed mustard greens. For wine, we've paired in a Zola white Cotes Du Rhone.

So just about everything here, short of blistering the apples and three specific items are all right out of the box. The one's we made are these four, and they took about 15 mins in total:

Straight from the store:

  1. Époisses de Bourgogne

  2. Humbolt Fog

  3. Figs

  4. Blackberries

  5. Black Cherries

  6. Mustard Greens

  7. Bourbon Dark Chocolate

And our home made goodies:

  1. roasted macadamia nuts

  2. pan seared smoked duck breast

  3. enoki mushrooms

  4. beet soaked radish 

Roasted Macadamia nuts:

macadamiaNuts.jpg

preheat the over to 400 degrees

halve several dozen nuts, sprinkle with Alder smokes sea salt and a little fresh rosemary and pop into the over for @ 5 minutes.... until golden brown, almost almond colored. 

Smoked Duck Breast:

This one is really just a quick modification of the already smoked store bought duck. I love a little added crispiness and were also going to use the rendered fat from the cap for the bread and also the Enoki mushrooms. 

Step 1, peel off the fatty cap revealing the soft delicate breast. get a small sauce pan nice and hot and place the fat, smoked side down, and add a very small amount of butter (a teaspoon at most). let that render down to a nice pool of bubble browning goodness. 

Step 2, throw in a handful of the Enoki mushrooms. It takes about 3-5 mins depending on how hot your pan gets for them to basically turn into french fries. Once they get to a golden color that would make McDonald's drool, take them off and dry them off with a paper towel. 

Step 3, Thinly slice the duck breast and throw that in the pan making sure the get as much contact with the pan as possible (dont stack them up... we're shooting for equal crispy all around here). I like a little Herbs de Provence on mine so I threw on a pinch. Let them get a little crispy and them take them out, shaking off the fat and reduce the heat to low.

Step 4, Slice your baguette and drop them in the pan. Baste them down with the fat on both side so your toast gets nice and crispy. 

Step 5... just kidding, there isnt one... lets throw it on a board and get ready to eat!

IMG_7354.JPG

 

 

 

Smoked Bone in Porterhouse

matthew wilson

Smoked Porterhouse, or our version of "Bistecca alla Fiorentina"

Smoked Porterhouse, or our version of "Bistecca alla Fiorentina"

It's high BBQ season, and with the 4th of July coming up, I wanted to share one of my all time favorite recipes... SMOKED PORTERHOUSE!!! Ok, Ok, I know.... why would you waste time smoking an already amazing cut of meat. Season, sear and munch, right? Trust me, it's worth the effort and once you've tried it you'll find yourself in a pavlovian drool whenever you think about steak. Coincidentally, I've also tried bone in Ribeye (great but not the most copious output) and solo NY strip (which I didn't love, too tough). When it comes to smoking, the bone and the marbling are a big deal, which is why the strip alone wasnt great. The thickness is also very important. I'll share some tips that I've learned in my many, many, many, attempts....

1) go THICK and go dry aged! My favorite so far has been about 2-2.5 inches of porterhouse with the full T-bone. The dry aged at whole foods (which actually has really great beef where I live but is on the more expensive side), at 2.5" thick it was about $50.00. That is MORE that enough for 2-4, depending on how hungry you are. Keep and eye on the filet portion as well and make sure you get a nice big one.

2) FAT, is not you're enemy! It, as well as its reaction with fire, is one of the crucial flavors that everyone loves. Maker sure the butcher leaves a solid fat rind on the outside of the NY strip portion. I like to shave it down myself and use some of the fat for sauces or my favorite "huevos diablos con carne" (which I'll share soon as well).  

3) BONE, BONE, BONE (..bone thugs in harmony?!) A good butcher will probably understand, but just make sure they leave both "process" on the bone. Those are the wings that make the "T", which are very important. These cuts are't very fatty and have little collagen to break down. That's usually the reason for long slow cooks & smoking. Since this cut is already soft, we are using it to saturate flavor and soften it up even more. The bone will help distribute heat to the thicker center in both cooking phases so you get and even cook with insanely soft and flavored meat. 

4) Season and wrap it over night, or for a few hours at the least! 

5) low and slow for the first cook, and BLAZING hot for the second. 

not that we've gotten that laid down... here's the good stuff:

  1. 1 Bone in porterhouse cut to 2-2.5 inches thick
  2. 1 lobe of elephant garlic, or 1 clove of regular garlic sliced paper thin
  3. parchment paper and string
  4. sea salt
  5. pepper
  6. paprika
  7. mustard seed
  8. fresh rosemarry 
  9. fresh thyme
  10. ground espresso
  11. smoker, charcoal grill, apple and mesquite wood chips (I use a https://masterbuilt.com/product/20070411-30-digital-electric-smoker/, and a regular charcoal grill)

PREPARATION:

Shave down the fat rind to a uniform thickness, maybe several millimeters, depending on how evenly the fat is distributed. I try to shave it into paper thin sections so I can render that down and use it for other recipes. I also like to shave off any irregular or superficial pieces of meat. I love a good crisp but anything too small just turns to a charred gift to the fire gods. 

Start by laying out a large sheet of parchment paper. It needs to be large enough to wrap tightly around the whole steak. I also do all my seasoning on the paper so I dont loose anything that doesn't stick to the surface. Shave your garlic paper thin, salt and pepper both sides of the steak well (probably 1 teaspoon of coarse sea salt per side, and enough pepper to match). Then I start covering the steak in the garlic. Once there's a nice even coating of garlic I dust both sides with paprika, espresso (especially the fat) and mustard seed, then break the leaves off of the rosemarry and thyme and pepper each side with those.  I usually throw a few whole stalks of herbs in the wrapping right at the end too. 

...ready to wrap!

...ready to wrap!

Now wrap it and tie it nice and tight before refrigerating overnight. This part is important, however if you go too long, (perhaps a few days), it starts to over season and taste more like pastrami. 

The next morning, I unwrap these puppies, peel off all the garlic, and pat them down. The leftover herbs and garlic usually go into some sort of sauce. 

File_000 (4).jpeg

Now we are ready for the smoker! 

I start my smoker off at 225 to get a nice heavy smoke with apple wood. Once the smoke is flowing nicely, I like to drop the temperature way way down to about 170. My goal here is to get lots of smoke, and breakdown the internal marbling as much as possible in a reasonable amount of time, without really cooking the meat. If I want a nice rare cut, it has usually taken me around 4 hours in the smoker to get the meat up to 115. If you want it more well done, you can smoke it longer, but remember we're going to be grilling them as well. Even more than temperature, I like to look at the meat and specifically the fat to see the surface texture change. This long portion of the cook, is more about the flavor and texture of the meat than the final cook temp. You want the fat to become translucent and the meat to almost start to look candied. 

getting there...

getting there...

..., and, DONE!!!! 

..., and, DONE!!!! 

OK were ready to grill now! The meat should be close to the consistency of thick jello at this point, with just a tiny bit of sweat.  Before we sear it, we want to let it cool down to room temp before cooking. The good thing about charcoal is that it usually takes the same amount of time to prep as the meat does to cool. (I'm a HUGE fan of royal oak natural lump charcoal .http://royal-oak.com.) It holds the temp just right once you've let them smolder to the right point.

The coals should be red hot, and edged with a layer of white ash. It should be hot to the point of not being able to put your hand over it for more than a second or so. I like to start on the bone end, standing straight up. That heats the up the bone nicely and simultaneously renders the fat rind enough the flame up the grill. This is the good stuff. The fat dripping onto the coals send up a bath of maillard reaction goodness, and the flames push the outer fat layers quickly there as well. However, too much flame is also not good, which is why I start bone down, and why it's important to have the butcher NOT shave it off. As the bone heats up you'll see the base start to bubble and creep up the interior process (it's mesmerizing to watch). Then I flip it over onto the long fat rind and let that go until its liquid inside and crispy outside.  This is where the flames really start to go, so every once in a while if they are too much, just lift the steak up and let the flames die down. Next we flip it onto the faces, a few minutes each side, until it's an almond and golden brown, and crackling throughout.

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You'll know it's done when the meat starts to thicken up, and the fat is nicely caramelized. I love the thumb trick for meat temp, but if you need it, use a thermometer. Rare is around 120, going up to 160 for well done. I like mine on the lower end of medium rare, so I like it to be about as firm as the flexor muscle of your thumb (the middle of the thumb pad in your palm).

...Ok now for the last, and extremely important step,

LET IT REST!!

If you pull it off the grill and slice right into it, you're going to wind up with a plate full of juice, and if it's on your plate, guess where it's not?... in your steak! So, let is rest for about 5-10 mins, then cut into it. Start at the bone and cut straight down the length on both sides. If you've cooked it right, the filet and the strip should be very easy to separate from the bone. Once they are off, I like to clean off any thin or fatty skin that's left (which shouldn't be much) and then slice them up. Follow the cross bar of the T for the direction of the cut (against the grain as always). That will give you the best cut for the least amount of effort in chewing. At this point though, especially on the filet side, you can just look at it and it will dissolve into buttery goodness (just kidding, some chewing is required).

PLATING AND SERVING....

I like to serve family style on one of our large charred boards. The dark surface really lets the colors of the meat shine. This time I've take radishes, arugula and baby basil from our garden, with some smoked quail eggs, and a few tomatoes, dusted with spices and cheese and torched until crispy. Last but not least, a little more paprika and a little lime zest from a micro plane, and it's ready to disappear. 

It may seem fancy, but it's just the basics, season right, cook right and make it look tasty (Black tie BBQ to the bone, especially on this one)....Hope you enjoy! 

Cheers!

Matt & Alex.

 

 

 

 

 

The House of Smoke & Ore

matthew wilson

We're love simple and elegant, especially when it comes to cooking and design. When the meat is rested, and the sauce thickened, we want to devour it in style, surrounded by friends & family. Think of us as your black tie BBQ ambassador. Whether your looking for a hand charred charcuterie board, flatware to set a stunning table, some killer BBQ sauce, or just a solid recipe for your next dinner, we've got plenty to offer.

The Most important part to us is bringing together a community of artists, craftsman, designers & cooks. Each of us sharing our love for BBQ. We may make our own pieces for now, but out goal is to bring together great ideas under one roof, and show the world what BBQ really means. 

Cheers!

Matt Wilson& Alexandra Jackson

(Smoke & Ore Founders)